Choosing a Garden Bridge and Arbor for Your Path

A garden path is only half finished until it has something to cross and somewhere to pass through. A bridge handles the dip, the damp patch or the stream. An arbor marks the point where one part of the garden becomes another. This page helps you measure the opening, choose a rail style and plan a level base before you pick either one.

Step one: measure the span or the opening

Start with a tape measure and two stakes. For a bridge, measure the gap from the firm ground on one side to the firm ground on the other. Do not measure from the edge of the water or the edge of the dip. Measure from where a solid footing can actually sit. Allow extra length at each end so the bridge rests on ground that will not crumble. Then measure the width of the path itself, so the bridge feels like part of it and not a narrow pinch in the middle.

For an arbor, measure the clear width you want to walk through. Some arbor names give the opening outright, which makes planning easy. Think about the widest thing you will carry through, such as a wheelbarrow or a person with a watering can in each hand.

Short gaps suit short bridges. A 3' white cedar arched plank bridge or a 4' pine plank bridge is enough for a shallow dip or a narrow ditch.

Wider gaps need a longer bridge, and these come in several lengths. The traditional arched cedar bridge is sold at 8', 12' and 16', so you can match it to a stream or ravine. Measure twice, then pick the length that leaves room at both ends.

Step two: pick a rail style

The rail changes how a bridge looks and how it feels underfoot. A plain plank bridge with no fuss suits a cottage path or a vegetable plot. A single rail gives you something to rest a hand on while keeping the view open. The 4' Amelia bridge is a single rail design in stained treated pine, and its description calls it whimsical, so it suits a garden with a bit of play in it.

The arched bridge with side rails has a more formal look. Its description talks about a regal atmosphere, which suits a larger garden or a water feature that is meant to be seen. If you like a bridge that surprises people, the Opti-Breeze design uses a zig-zag pattern that gives the impression of an uneven surface. It comes in 4', 10' and 12' lengths, so it works for small and large gaps alike.

Step four: choose an arbor that fits the path

An arbor works as a doorway with no walls. It tells people where the next part of the garden begins and gives climbing plants something to hold. Lattice side panels suit morning glories and similar vines. The Canterbury arbor is sold with a 42" or a 48" opening, so you can pick the width that fits your path.

For a more traditional garden, the Victorian arbor has ample lattice on its sides for climbers. The Mount Vernon has a four-foot wide opening with generously spaced side lattice and top slats, which makes it a good fit for a wide path and a large plant.

If you prefer a softer or more unusual shape, look at the Roman Arch, which has a gently sloping roof, or the Round Rose Arbor. The Rose Arbor Pergola has a flat, oriental-style crown with widely placed planks. The Harmony Arbor is the most affordable of the bunch for a simple entry.

Step five: put the two together

The simplest walkway is a line. Place an arbor at the start of the path, then carry the eye along it to a bridge. Match the materials so the two look related. Pairing a treated pine arbor with a treated pine bridge keeps the colour consistent, and a red cedar bridge looks right beside other cedar pieces. Keep the arbor opening close to the width of the bridge, so the path does not narrow or widen suddenly.

If you only want a hint of structure, a trellis can stand beside a path to carry roses without taking up much room.

Step three: plan a level base on soft ground

Soft ground is where many bridge projects go wrong. A bridge that sits on loose soil will tilt as the ground settles. Clear the ends of the bridge down to firm earth, and build a flat bed for each side. Check it with a level, then check it again across the two ends together, so one side is not higher than the other. Follow the maker's manual for how to support the ends.

The same thinking applies to an arbor. Its legs need to stand on ground that is flat and firm, or the whole frame will lean and the door-like opening will go out of square. Fill and tamp low spots before you set it down. Treated pine and red cedar are both described as suited to outdoor use, but neither will do much for you on a sloping, soggy footing.

How to choose

• Measure from firm ground to firm ground, then add room for the ends to rest.
• Match the bridge width to the path, and the arbor opening to what you will carry through.
• Pick a rail style for the look you want: plain planks, a single rail or a full arched bridge.
• Choose treated pine, white cedar or red cedar to suit the setting, and read each description for how it is made.
• Plan a flat, firm base before you order. Soft ground needs the most work.

Questions people ask

How much longer than the gap should a bridge be?

It needs enough length to rest on firm ground at both ends. Check the maker's manual for how much bearing it needs.

Can I put an arbor on a lawn?

Yes, if the ground under it is level and firm. Soft or sloping turf will let the frame lean over time.

Do I need a rail on a garden bridge?

Not always. A low plank bridge over a shallow dip can go without one. Over deeper or wetter ground, a rail is common sense.

Can a bridge and an arbor be different woods?

They can. Matching them keeps the look tidy, but a contrast can also work if the shapes are similar.